We agree with the Greek. It's Medieval Heaven.

Today was a good day. It is really cool now but this hasn't kept huge crowds away from the old city of Toledo. They don't affect us much because you can always duck down a winding side street and leave the groups obediently following the person holding the flag or coloured umbrella. (We've been there.)
The main square is where the public bus dropped us off and where everyone else meets. Plaza De Zocodover was built for crowds. and used to hold bull fights and fan-filled scenes of executions during the Spanish Inquisition. Spain's history, like many other European countries, is a story of duelling powers - religious leaders vs kings. But Spain didn't have Henry VIII. Spain's king, Phillip II, didn't like being told what to do by the Catholic church either but he just upped stakes and headed to the backwaters of Madrid, leaving the former capital of Toledo to the church mucky mucks. But I also understand there was a mutual benefit seen by both entities as the Church sorted out the riffraff during their bloodthirsty inquisitions.
So along comes this Greek artist who is beholden to the patrons of Toledo during the time of the Inquisition. His paintings did a powerful job of furthering the propaganda of the Church. Today the brilliance of El Greco's paintings is viewed in a more secular light.
Thus ends the recent history of Toledo as told by a student of guide books and Wikipedia....