If it’s Wednesday, it must be Montserrat…

On the backs of selected seats in metro and train cars. Guess which one applies at the end of the day....

Okay we know we are crazy. Believe me. We are really going to slow down - tomorrow, No wait, Friday , well, maybe Saturday….

This am we got up to our alarm (late night last night) and had a coffee con leche and a flakey, fresh croissant at our little coffee shop around the corner.
We then walked to the metro station and made our way to the Sants Estacio (train station) taking a number to wait to buy a train ticket from Barcelona back to Madrid late tomorrow. Then we checked out the luggage storage locker in case our landlord wants us out by noon. We then found our way back to the metro station to go to another train station to wait for 1 hour for the train to take us to Montserrat. 4450 steps so far and the day has only just begun! 

Concert at the Palau de la Musica Catalana

This is sure to be one of the highlights of our time in Spain. Three virtuoso guitar players and an incredible pair of flamenco dancers performing in a modernisme theatre. 

Holy sensory overload! Both the Spanish and occasional English narrative flew by us but the enthusiasm of the audience helped us appreciate their banter. Fingers flew as they played classical guitar pieces, modern jazz and spectacular flamenco. The dancers were a provocative mixture of lithe twisting, seductive posturing and fierce stamping. We were wrapped around their expressive fingers from the moment they appeared. Sadly, no photos.

And the building? Over the top organic decorations of colour and light. We spent a few hours in a fantastical world. 

Exterior of building. It is located on a narrow street so hard to capture

Main concert hall with unusual stained glass skylight to allow in daylight. 

Main concert hall from balcony where we sat.

Stained glass skylight

Stage decoration

Maritime Museum

The Ramblas ends just before the waterfront in Barcelona so at the end of our walk yesterday, we headed for the Maritime Museum. On first entering the building I was congratulating some architect for the brilliant design - reflecting the ribs of a boat. I soon found out that that might have been in the mind of a designer, but the site has been used for shipbuilding, canon casting and munitions storing for seven centuries. Sometime in there, someone had a brilliant plan. It opened as a maritime museum in 1941 and with recent innovation, is another example of what museums can do to come alive and be an super experience.

Modern containers are used as part of the structure

The Royal Galley, built in Barcelona in the 1560's

Shipyards while still in use

Ramlin' in Barcelona

 Our day is only half over. We've been rambling' on the Ramblas, a famous street of old Barcelona. Tonight we go to a concert at Palau de la Musica Catalonia. It starts at 9:00 (Spanish time) which allows for a much-needed siesta....
Here's a taste of what we've seen. Barcelona is amazing.....

My notes with metro instructions for the day...

This is why we have to do so much walking. A hearty breakfast, eh?

La Boqueria Market

Gaudi's first Modernista Building - Palau Guell

Balconies allow for windows to the floor to allow cool air

The Ramblas

Another example of the balconies

Spanish time

Our friendly hotel hosts love to chat - they are proud of being Spaniards and will explain their cultural uniqueness happily. So we now know how all ages seem to be able to stay out every night until at least 11:00.
The typical Spanish work day starts at 9:00 am, breaks at 2:00, time out for a siesta (necessary much of the year because of the heat of the day), back to work at 5:00. Finish at 8:00 pm. Then nobody wants to just go home - better to meet up with friends and to eat, drink and enjoy the relatively cool evenings. The routine doesn't change just because the weather is cooler.
Maybe instead of fiddling with daylight saving time, we should ponder the Spanish timetable?

Not for vegetarians

46 years ago when we first travelled in Europe, I found the food frightening! I had never experienced most of what we encountered. But I'm a grownup now! I love exploring the national dishes and although the rise of tourism means a lot of it is suspect (watch out for the plates of tasteless paella warn the guidebooks!), I'm now like a bird watcher with a list. Check, check, check!
So first on the list is jamón. Spain reveres its jamón. The best comes from Iberian black pigs who roam freely in oak forests eating only acorns (what do you think, Oak Bay?) The best is called jamón ibérico de bellota. We've spotted it in shops - priced €149 for 1 kg. Displays of the long trotters are everywhere. I guess if we lived here, we'd have a hock hanging in our kitchen with a long, terrifyingly-sharp knife at the ready. 
If you want to be a connoisseur, look for savoury (i.e. salty) smooth marbled texture. Served on a fresh baguette with tomatoes. 

Ready for slicing

Common display in shops that sell the ham, some cheese and wine

Plates ready for serving

Shop display

The best - Iberico bellota

Living like Madrileños, pm

We headed out again in the late afternoon and joined thousands of others wandering down the many pedestrian-only streets. While we saw the occasional group of tourists here and there, for the most part we seemed surrounded by locals on their paseo (stroll). People of all ages, just wandering along enjoying the fall weather. This went on until we finally bowed out around 9:00 pm - leaving the crowds to continue to enjoy themselves.
Looking for Spain? This is clearly it. A gathering of family and friends strolling, enjoying street musicians, sitting on stone walls visiting, and gathering in cafes eating. What a happy place!

We started in Puerto del Sol, a square in the centre of Madrid and Spain. It was established  in the 1700's and is considered the soul of the city.The tio pepe sign has been towering over the square since the 30's.

On the other side of the square, this building was originally the post office (1760), now the county governor's office.
It is notorious for being the headquarters for dictator Francisco Franco. 

Sunday afternoon in pedestrian-friendly central Madrid

Plaza Mayar - surrounded on four sides with iconic Spanish buildings: Four stories, symmetrical windows, iron balconies, slate roofs and steepled towers. One of many plazas dotting central Madrid. 

At the farthest end of our walk, the Royal Palace. Europe's largest with 2800 rooms. The sun is setting. 

Chocolate and churros - a good mid-evening snack....

Back to Puerto del Sol. I'm reminded to search out this delicious sherry in Andalucia. 

We are heading home but many are still on their paseo.